Keeping Ghost Mantises – Phyllocrania paradoxa

Want to keep a ghost mantis? It’s perfectly doable even for beginners, as long as the terrarium, food, and care routine are all right. Phyllocrania paradoxa looks like a withered leaf and often sits so still that you’ll have to search for it among the branches at first. Here, we’ll show you what your pet needs, from the moment it arrives until it molts.

Keeping Ghost Mantises: The Most Important Things at a Glance

• Size: about 4–5 cm when fully grown.
• Behavior: a quiet, stealthy hunter with leaf-like camouflage.
• Care: To start with, we recommend keeping one animal per terrarium.
• Terrarium: 20 × 20 × 30 cm is a practical size for a single adult animal.
• Food: small fruit flies for young animals, and later larger fruit flies and suitable flies.

The animals can be brown, beige, or green in color. You cannot reliably select a specific color by spraying more or adjusting the temperature. Tailor their care to the needs of your ghost mantis.

How quickly your pet develops depends, among other things, on temperature, diet, and sex. Males usually reach adulthood after about six molts, while females do so after about seven. Females generally live longer. The monthly estimates from a single breeding cycle are therefore not a fixed timeline for your pet.

Keeping Ghost Mantises in a Terrarium: Space and Setup

It’s easier to monitor young mantises in a well-organized rearing container. You’ll be able to tell more quickly whether they’re eating and when they’re due to molt. The container needs secure ventilation at the top and on the sides. Make sure that neither the mantis nor its small feed flies can fit through the openings.

For rearing, you can use a BraPlast container with dual ventilation. Choose the size based on your animal and the available space beneath its perch. The flat versions aren’t necessarily suitable for every stage of development.

For a single adult animal, a terrarium measuring 20 × 20 × 30 cm provides enough space for a well-organized setup. You’ll need perches with good grip in the upper area and open space below. You can also use an existing, properly ventilated terrarium.

If you’re setting up a new terrarium, our Mantid Terrarium Complete Set is a great starting point for a single ghost mantis. Even with the set, be sure to check before introducing your mantis to make sure your setup leaves enough space for molting.

A few sturdy branches are sufficient. There should be at least twice the animal’s body length of free space beneath a molting site—preferably with some extra room to spare. The substrate and decorations count toward this space. A tall container is of little use if there is a branch lying directly beneath the animal.

Use clean, untreated material. Check collected twigs for visible insects, mold, and any possible residues. Brief heating does not guarantee that the wood is free of parasites. If you are unsure of the source, do not use the material.

Temperature, Humidity, and Spraying

The ghost mantis is native to parts of sub-Saharan Africa and is also found in Madagascar. Its camouflage blends in with twigs and dry leaves. However, this does not mean that it can survive without water or adequate humidity.

As a general guideline for everyday care, aim for a temperature of about 24–26 °C during the day and around 20 °C at night. Take the temperature where your pet spends most of its time. Do not place the terrarium in direct sunlight. Additional heat is only necessary if the measured temperatures are too low.

A relative humidity of around 60–80% can serve as a guideline. The level may fluctuate; constantly fogged-up windows and damp furnishings are not the goal. Good ventilation and allowing the area to dry between misting sessions go hand in hand.

Check daily and, if necessary, lightly mist a wall or the enclosure so that small droplets form for the animal to drink. Do not spray directly onto the animal. How often this is necessary depends on ventilation, room air quality, and temperature. A fixed schedule, such as “every three days,” therefore may not work for every terrarium.

Feeding Ghost Mantises: What Kind of Prey Is Best?

Keeping a ghost mantis requires a sufficient supply of prey. These insects readily accept flies. The key factor is which prey your mantis can reliably subdue. The following developmental stages are provided as a guide. L1 refers to a newly hatched mantis; the number increases by one after each molt.

Small young insects, approximately L1/L2: Small fruit flies are a good place to start. We carry the “Ant” and “Turkish Glider” varieties. You don’t need both at the same time.

Growing young insects, often starting at L3/L4: Once they can catch small fruit flies with ease, you can offer them larger fruit flies. “Big” is another option for insects that can handle larger prey.

Larger juveniles and adult ghost mantises: Goldflies and, later on, blowflies are suitable options. Start with smaller prey. A delicate male, in particular, doesn’t need to be switched to the largest flies.

Start by offering just a few prey items and watch them hunt. If the abdomen is noticeably full, that’s a reason to wait before offering more food. Remove any leftover food promptly. That way, you can better see what was actually eaten.

Molting: Your pet needs rest now

Before molting, your ghost mantis may refuse food and remain suspended in one spot for an extended period of time. This isn’t necessarily a problem. First, check the temperature, available hanging spots, and your pet’s condition.

When a molt is imminent, remove any food items that might disturb the mantis and leave it alone. Open and move the container as little as possible. Do not move or handle the mantis during the molt.

After molting, the new exoskeleton needs time to harden. Wait to feed your pet until it is steady on its feet again and actively reacting to prey. This takes longer for larger animals than for small juveniles. A fixed timeframe cannot replace this observation.

Should ghost mantises be kept alone or in a group?

To start with, we recommend keeping them alone. Although ghost mantises are considered relatively nonaggressive, they can still eat each other. Having enough food does not reliably prevent this, especially during molting.

In a group, it’s also harder to tell which animal has eaten. If you’re experienced but still keep a group, you’ll need plenty of space, several separate enclosures, animals of similar size, and spare containers on hand at all times. You’ll need to separate animals in case of attacks or if some are being bullied. A group isn’t necessary to enjoy keeping these animals.

Telling the Difference Between Males and Females

Starting in the middle stages of the juvenile life cycle, differences become increasingly apparent. Females become broader and have a rather wide crown. Males appear slimmer; their crown is usually longer and narrower. Adult males are also notable for their longer, sturdier antennae. Evaluate several characteristics together.

Breeding Ghost Mantises: Plan First, Then Mate Them

If you want to breed Phyllocrania paradoxa, you’ll need adult, fully matured specimens. Allow several weeks after the final molt, rather than forcing them to mate on a specific day. The female should be well-fed. Place the insects together under controlled conditions and monitor them closely, as there is still a risk to the male in this situation.

Before mating, prepare enough rearing sites and small fruit flies. An ootheca is the protective egg case that the female attaches to a twig, for example. Many young can hatch from it. However, egg laying alone does not prove that the eggs are fertilized.

First, let a freshly laid ootheca harden. Keep it well ventilated and ensure there is plenty of space around the hatching area. The development time depends heavily on the conditions. Expect it to take several weeks, and do not raise the temperature solely to speed up hatching. A fixed four-week timeline would not be a reliable promise.

As soon as the young hatch, make sure you have suitable rearing containers and small live prey ready. Then check very carefully to ensure that the young can reach their prey and that the containers neither dry out nor remain constantly wet.

Frequently Asked Questions About the Ghost Mantis

My ghost mantis isn’t eating. What can I do?

First, check whether its abdomen is already well-filled or if it’s about to molt. Also check the temperature and size of the prey. A fly that’s too large can intimidate your pet. Remove any food items that are causing distress and leave the mantis alone. If it appears weakened or can no longer hold on securely, have the cause examined by an expert.

Keeping ghost mantises: Do I have to buy everything new?

No. An existing tank may work if it is escape-proof, well-ventilated, and provides enough space for molting. First, check the dimensions and the temperatures you’ve measured. You only need additional heat or accessories if they meet a specific need.

Caring for Ghost Mantises: Your Daily Care Checklist

• Is the Ghost Mantis seated securely, and is there enough space beneath it?
• Are the temperature and ventilation right? Will the surfaces be able to dry after spraying?
• Did she eat it, or is she about to molt?
• Have any food scraps been removed, and are the climbing areas secure?

Discover More Mantises

Here you’ll find more mantises from our store. Which species is right for you? You’ll find care instructions on the respective product page.

Still unsure? Feel free to ask us your question in the comments section below the article.